Bonjour one and all! It has been way too long between blog posts, and mostly because my original post started out more like a lengthy essay, rather than a quick account of my trip to France. And let’s be honest, I want to savor these memories, not rush them! So here we have the first instalment of the journey of a lifetime!
I had been counting down for months and finally the time arrived to start the journey to French Art School! Travelling with my good friend, Rebekah, helped a great deal, giving me the confidence that I could in fact cope with the prospect of venturing to a foreign country of which I knew next to none of the language; I am quite the inexperienced explorer... The last weeks leading up to it really started to drag on and then all of the sudden it was upon me. It was a frenzy of last minute shopping, packing and repacking, reducing luggage and still having too much!
The flight to France from Australia is approximately 25 hours with a few hours’ stopover in Doha, so it is a long haul to get to our destination. Needless to say, we were very tired upon arrival in Paris, and after a long wait in the arrivals queue, a fight to retrieve my massive suitcase, we emerged into the arrivals hall – however, our driver was not there. Apparently if you are just on time coming through the gate, you are too late! Thankfully I managed to rally some of my quickly depleting energy to install my international SIM and make a call to an unsuspecting person in the UK (who was at first not inclined to be at all helpful) and threaten them with every misery under the sun if they didn’t find us a driver pronto! You can imagine the smoke coming out of my ears when the phone line went dead and I thought he had hung up on me! But, by some miracle, he called me back with a solution and all was right again in the world.
Our driver was a very spirited young woman with a people mover van that held up to 8 people and a pile of luggage. Oh my, was that drive hilarious. Our first experience of French culture...they speed, they ignore road rules, they merge within an inch of their lives and follow close enough to jump in the boot of the car ahead of them. I didn’t have the sense to be afraid and I thought on more than one occasion that this would be how I die. But hey – I was in Paris and we were driving past so many amazing icons - the Eiffel Tower, driving through Arc de Triomphe, and crossing the Seine! And this was one amazing woman - beeping and abusing people and driving with oodles of confidence. True Parisian style, road rage and all!
Following this slightly rocky (and funny in hindsight) start, we were deposited at our hotel - ready to really start our adventure! Imagine our surprise when our room for two featured only a double bed... Um, no. We politely explained we had asked for two beds, and this was on our booking papers etc. The hotel staff very obligingly provided us with a “free upgrade” to a room with two beds. Two singles so side-by-side they might have been a double bed! 😂 The room was quite cute with a lovely little balcony, and we technically had our own beds, so all was good in the world again.
Visting the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur
Feeling slightly wrung out, we fought the desire to collapse in a heap and decided to take a walk up to Montemartre. The steps leading up to the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur looked steep but doable. Turns out you can’t see from the bottom that there are about ten flights of them! Around 300 steps in all, but we figured the end prize would be worth it, and it truly was. I will also mention at this point that there were a number of people running up and down those steps- apparently for their health! The mood at the top was festive. I am not exactly sure what was going on, but a large group of people were gathered on the wide steps leading up to the church singing, and many others were there taking in the sights to be seen. Due to our interesting start, we were there later than we intended to be. This ended up being a blessing as we were treated to a beautiful sunset with rich, reddish gold sun rays caressing the western side of the Basilica. It was magical. The interior of the cathedral was breathtaking- the sheer size alone was impressive, and combined with the mosaic ceiling, stained-glass windows, tapestries and intricate sculptures, I was left speechless.
Basilique du Sacré-Cœur
(Photos: Vanessa Osborne, 2024)
Exploring Paris on a Time Limit
The next day we met up with Jacqueline, our French Art School mentor and hostess, who took us on a very sprightly tour of her favourite haunts of Paris. By this time I had had a complete about face of my pre-conceived notions of Paris. I was certain I wouldn’t like it because of all the people, traffic, and general hustle and bustle. How wrong was I? It turns out, I was very wrong. The ‘hustle and bustle’ was different. The Parisians do not rush around – they glide like swans. They get stuff done, but they enjoy life at the same time. I noticed on the journey from the airport to the hotel that the traffic and pedestrians are always on the move – making moves that would result in the violent application of car horns, and potentially a high-speed car chase. Nope – not in Paris. There was none of that. People just got on with it – traffic flowed, and pedestrians safely crossed the busy streets. So, there it is – I love Paris.
Anyway, I digress. Our day included much joyful exploration. We met up with a few of the other lovely fellow artists who were joining us on this French adventure. We started the morning visiting gorgeous arcades and iconic art stores. For me, visiting an art store is one of life’s purest of joys. Passage Choiseul is a wonderful, covered arcade, featuring ironwork lamps and arched windows, and is home to a row of shops including Lavrut. I am sure I gasped aloud as I walked into this emporium of pens, paints, papers and many other items that would make any artist “ooh” and “aah”. I think we all walked out with a little collection of goodies to warm us up for the art adventure. A much needed tea and coffee break ensued as we descended upon a fabulous little cafe called Joyeux and spent some relaxing time freestyle sketching while having a cup of earl grey.
Art Supplies!
(Photos: Vanessa Osborne, 2024)
The day also included visits to the Sennelier and Charvin stores which upon entry whisk you away into a world of colour. I managed to avoid purchasing more paint, however, I could not resist the array of sketch books, one with coffee coloured pages. Of course, my intention was that I would be sketching the whole time I was away...that is, when I wasn’t painting. But it is amazing how time flies away from you and with each day being packed full of activities, there was little time to spare.
When in Paris!
Our main goal for the day was a visit to the Monet waterlily panoramiques in Musée de l'Orangerie. On the way we picked up some lunch and purchased some delectable delights at Angelina’s. Jac’s advice was, if you only have one delicious dessert in Paris, let it be from Angelina’s! It is renowned for its famous selection of pastries and hot chocolate.
Angelina, Paris (Note - Citron Tarte looking very lemony in the centre!)
(Photos: Vanessa Osborne, 2024)
Springtime in Paris
Jardin des Tuileries was on the way to the museum and there was no way that we would be rushing through without taking in this beautiful garden. Being early spring it was not quite in its full glory, but no one told that to the bearded irises that were putting on the most amazing blooming show, glistening in the sun and emitting an intoxicating scent. The weather was perfect – not too warm, not too cold, beautiful blue skies and an ambiance to die for.
Views from Jardin des Tuileries
(Photo: Vanessa Osborne, 2024)
Waterlilies Through the Eyes of Monet
At the museum we checked in our shopping bags and amazing desserts (after we had decided we could trust the cloakroom staff to protect, and not eat, our pastries), then started our tour through the museum. Being in the presence of something as iconic as the Monet waterlilies is beyond words - almost. The sheer size of them, the way they curve around the gallery walls, the seemingly simple brushstrokes that form these masterpieces.
Monet Waterlily Panoramiques in Musée de l'Orangerie
(Photos: Vanessa Osborne, 2024)
The museum is home to an impressive collection of artworks including three paintings of Monet’s Rouen Cathedral, and works by Pablo Picasso, Andre Derain, Chaïm Soutine, Marie Laurencin, and many notable others.
Musée de l'Orangerie
(Photos: Vanessa Osborne, 2024)
By the end of our tour our tummies were rumbling and telling us it was time to eat those delectable delights we had purchased earlier. Lunch was to be on the bank of the Seine, where chairs are scattered along the bank for the public to use. If this was Adelaide, those chairs would be all in the bottom of the Torrens along with the eScooters and eBikes provided for our convenience... At Angelina’s I had treated myself to a Tarte Citron. I have always been partial to a lemony dessert and never have I had one more lemony! To behold, it was a work of art. To eat, well, it was mouthwatering – sexy is the word I think I used to describe the flavours to my highly amused companions. Speaking of savoring moments, I ate that baby in small bites and absorbed as much of the experience as possible. I think it will take a lot to top!
Lunching on the Seine
(Photos: Vanessa Osborne, 2024)
Floral Delights
Gorgeous florists are in abundance in Paris. There are fruit and vegetable shops where you can buy beautiful bunches of everything – especially peonies! Then there are the actual florists that stock the most amazing, voluptuous, colourful blooms! It is hard to know where to look. There are photo opportunities galore, so much so that one dear friend exclaimed that I had gone to Paris to photograph flowers – but she wasn’t really surprised! My absolute favourite was a coffee and flower shop combo that oozed vintage and shabby chic feels. They were busy arranging floral masterpieces of the most beautiful blooms including some exquisite parrot tulips that were grown by the store owner. Not far away we found another iconic florist, bursting at the seams with vibrant hydrangea, creamy and dusky mauve roses, stunning pale-yellow peonies of which I have never seen before, and many more floral gems.
Floral Delights
(Photos: Vanessa Osborne, 2024)
A Cruise Along the Seine
The final three standing for the afternoon, Rebekah, Jac and I, decided on a cruise along the Seine – probably due to our feet requiring rest... When you only have a couple days in Paris, this was a great way to take in the gorgeous architecture. There is just so much beauty at every corner. The dear old Notre Dame Cathedral was still surrounded in scaffolding on all sides but the facade. And, of course, when in Paris one must take photos of the Eiffel Tower... While it was impressive, I personally preferred the cathedrals and the charming architecture of the Opéra district in Paris.
A Cruise on the Seine
(Photos: Vanessa Osborne, 2024)
Meeting back up with a couple of the others, we ended the day with a glass of rosé (maybe a couple) at Le Royal Opéra, and then enjoyed an authentic Parisian dinner experience, lining up for Bistrot Victories, cramming into a tiny cafe, and receiving the absolute best service from a charming French man, and more amazing food. And yes – I tried escargot! Oh – and a Crème Brûlée...
Food for the Soul!
(Photos: Vanessa Osborne, 2024)
I still don’t know how we achieved all that awesomeness in one day, but I tell you, it was amazing. And here was me thinking I wouldn’t need more than my mobile phone for photos... (Note to self – take a power bank and a spare phone next time...)
Twenty-three-thousand steps later, and getting lost on the way back to the hotel, needless to say, the next day I had to lay low for a bit to recover and prepare for the transit to the coveted La Forêt-du-Temple... But that is another story for another time... I hope you will join me!
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Beautifully done!😍